The French are weird. Their provincial parks are called national parks. (Political, but comprehensible.) All their park displays are only in French. (Parochial, but frustrating.) Their tourist literature skips most of the relevent stuff, like no dogs allowed, or trail to the beach is 3 km in the hot sun, or bring your swimsuit cause the beach at the end of the trail is fantastic, or why not take bikes in the first place? (Stupid, but possibly a result of second point.) Road works are their favourite summer pastime. (Really annoying when trying to catch a ferry, and probably also political.) Their campsites are pristine, peaceful, and almost impossible to find. (Also parochial I suspect, and very definitely very French.) They live for food. (Totally comprehensible, and of course, oh so French.)
After some baffling days along the north shore of the Gulf of St Lawrence, I have to say I mostly love them. We found, in 3 days:
- the world's best campsite - grassy slopes overlooking the water, populated by the most friendly, helpful people, all watching whales go by,
- three unbelievably good boulangeries,
- a bay filled with cavorting belugas, (really!)
- a gas station with 40 varieties of French wine,
- a warm sunny rock promontory to sit watching minke and beluga whales, seals (2 kinds), birds, porpoises, and sunsets,
- no less than 6 roadworks in one day, all of which required a contraflow lane, a pilot car, a 12 inch dropoff, no shoulder, or a 20 minute wait.
- a ferry that was cancelled 2 days in a row requiring a 100 km backwards detour starting at 6am today.
Today, finally, we crossed into the Maritimes, leaving those crazy French people til later. (I can't stay near the boulangeries any longer or I'll need to shop for clothes.) Tomorrow we hear there's a restaurant en route that serves lobster all day on the beach! It may not be our last! This is turning into a gastronomic tour of Canada (who would have guessed?), but no complaints on this end. Tonight N is cooking our new potatoes with fresh New Brunswick turbot fillets in butter and parsley. Tough life this, but someones got to do it.
Tuesday, 26 July 2011
Thursday, 21 July 2011
July 21 - 4 WEEKS
Perhaps I shouldn't have raved on so much about summer. Now we seem to have it in excess - the heat at least. Thermometer outside the camper registered 27 C at 9:30 this morning in the campsite, 37.8 C in Ottawa at 3pm. Ugh. At least they never say 'But it's a dry heat!' It's not - my glasses fogged up this afternoon after stepping outside from a cool building.
We've even decided to abandon the camper tonight and stay in a dog friendly, air conditioned hotel in Cornwall. I don't think anyone could sleep in this oppressive atmosphere, and what the heck - we can have a shower, a cold beer, and watch movies from the big bed. Who could ask for more?
The last two days we spent in Algonquin Park though, and it was beautiful. STILL no moose! (What's with this country - I thought we had zillions of the critters, no car was safe on the highways. Guess we'll have to wait til Newfoundland now.) Did some cycling, paddling, hiking, and lots of photography.
If you've wondered why only Norbert figures in any of the photos we post, it's only because I take 1 photo for his 1000, and I have time to upload mine and sort through them. He's devoting the rest of his retirement to sorting his. They may be published in the next century. Unfortunately, he's by far the better photographer, and we're missing out on some fabulous pictures. Oh well, tolerance required on this trip, by both of us.
So, tomorrow? Forecast is for continuing ghastly heat, so we're going to drive all day and aim for cooler climes in the east. Bypassed Ottawa today and will likely leave Montreal and Quebec City too for the fall.
Stay tuned!
We've even decided to abandon the camper tonight and stay in a dog friendly, air conditioned hotel in Cornwall. I don't think anyone could sleep in this oppressive atmosphere, and what the heck - we can have a shower, a cold beer, and watch movies from the big bed. Who could ask for more?
The last two days we spent in Algonquin Park though, and it was beautiful. STILL no moose! (What's with this country - I thought we had zillions of the critters, no car was safe on the highways. Guess we'll have to wait til Newfoundland now.) Did some cycling, paddling, hiking, and lots of photography.
If you've wondered why only Norbert figures in any of the photos we post, it's only because I take 1 photo for his 1000, and I have time to upload mine and sort through them. He's devoting the rest of his retirement to sorting his. They may be published in the next century. Unfortunately, he's by far the better photographer, and we're missing out on some fabulous pictures. Oh well, tolerance required on this trip, by both of us.
So, tomorrow? Forecast is for continuing ghastly heat, so we're going to drive all day and aim for cooler climes in the east. Bypassed Ottawa today and will likely leave Montreal and Quebec City too for the fall.
Stay tuned!
Sunday, 17 July 2011
July 17
Awwww, cottage life! Here we are in Huntsville, Ontario (my birth place), swanning around the cousins' places, boating, swimming, lounging on the dock in the obligatory Muskoka chairs (emphatically NOT Adirondack chairs), eating ice cream, and swilling beer. Tough life, and one wonders on days like this why anyone born here would actually leave. I seem to forget how that came about, but I'm sure it had something to do with youth and recklessness and fecklessness.
Truly this is Canadian summer at its best. Temperatures in the 30's, sun-dappled granite shorelines, breezy, boaty lakes, and family in abundance. When there are only 8 or 9 real summer weekends, you have to make the most of every moment. Water-ski today for tomorrow is winter!
Today we paddled the canoe about 5 km into town from the cottage, had an ice cream, swam at the public dock, and paddled back. A highly satisfying use of a hot Sunday morning. We're camped in the driveway, so the lake is 50 m. away. After dinner last night we swam by the light of the full moon. (I realize this may insite some kind of major depressive crisis in all the Vancouverites reading it, but I offer no apologies. As I recall, diving into the Pacific from any Gulf Island dock is equally sublime, if only slighly more bracing.)
One feature that eludes us here though is quality local wine. We had high hopes of trying some excellent Niagara vintages, and perused the selection of local reds at the LCBO in search of something fine with steak. Nothing (really!) over $15, and that was Wayne Gretsky's No. 99 Merlot. 'We sell a lot of that.' 'If you like Shiraz, we have one here. Only $9.99.' Doesn't sound promising, but in good faith, we bought 3, including Wayne's brew (how could we resist?) Did we try them? Well, let's just say that somewhere in Ontario we suspect they make better wine. They'd have to. Our advice - hockey players would probably do better making beer.
So, have to rush. BBQ on another dock, and water skiing down the lake this afternoon. Tata for now, from Muskoka!
xoxlliz
Truly this is Canadian summer at its best. Temperatures in the 30's, sun-dappled granite shorelines, breezy, boaty lakes, and family in abundance. When there are only 8 or 9 real summer weekends, you have to make the most of every moment. Water-ski today for tomorrow is winter!
Today we paddled the canoe about 5 km into town from the cottage, had an ice cream, swam at the public dock, and paddled back. A highly satisfying use of a hot Sunday morning. We're camped in the driveway, so the lake is 50 m. away. After dinner last night we swam by the light of the full moon. (I realize this may insite some kind of major depressive crisis in all the Vancouverites reading it, but I offer no apologies. As I recall, diving into the Pacific from any Gulf Island dock is equally sublime, if only slighly more bracing.)
One feature that eludes us here though is quality local wine. We had high hopes of trying some excellent Niagara vintages, and perused the selection of local reds at the LCBO in search of something fine with steak. Nothing (really!) over $15, and that was Wayne Gretsky's No. 99 Merlot. 'We sell a lot of that.' 'If you like Shiraz, we have one here. Only $9.99.' Doesn't sound promising, but in good faith, we bought 3, including Wayne's brew (how could we resist?) Did we try them? Well, let's just say that somewhere in Ontario we suspect they make better wine. They'd have to. Our advice - hockey players would probably do better making beer.
So, have to rush. BBQ on another dock, and water skiing down the lake this afternoon. Tata for now, from Muskoka!
xoxlliz
Tuesday, 12 July 2011
July 12
So busy on this holiday I haven't had time to update our blog! The lead photo was in Winnipeg, at the Forks last week. Where else could you see juggling chain saws???? I can just see some busker applying to the City of Vancouver to do this at Granville Island. Yea, right.
Had a great day cycling around Winnipeg - lovely downtown area. We also had time to see my cousin Nan, and pick up where we left off 15 years ago. Such a big country, and hard to stay in touch.
It really is a big country - this week we passed the longitudinal centre of Canada, the 4000 km mark, and our third time zone. We've been in northern Ontario for several days now, and no end in sight. It's a really long haul from Winnipeg to the Soo, but luckily filled with beautiful provincial parks. Our best campsite so far was Blue Lake P.P. in NE Ont. - fabulous swimming in crystal clear water. We've hiked to windswept beaches on Lake Superior, clambered over ancient lichen covered granite shield, and lazed by deep blue gin clear lakes. Beautiful! And no bugs!!!!
Had a great day cycling around Winnipeg - lovely downtown area. We also had time to see my cousin Nan, and pick up where we left off 15 years ago. Such a big country, and hard to stay in touch.
It really is a big country - this week we passed the longitudinal centre of Canada, the 4000 km mark, and our third time zone. We've been in northern Ontario for several days now, and no end in sight. It's a really long haul from Winnipeg to the Soo, but luckily filled with beautiful provincial parks. Our best campsite so far was Blue Lake P.P. in NE Ont. - fabulous swimming in crystal clear water. We've hiked to windswept beaches on Lake Superior, clambered over ancient lichen covered granite shield, and lazed by deep blue gin clear lakes. Beautiful! And no bugs!!!!
Wednesday, 6 July 2011
June 6
Mosquitoes. Manitoba....
Just like when you have children, no one tells you how awful it can really be some days. I think when people from Vancouver cross the border into Manitoba there should be a diversion, like at a weigh scale, where we are all armed with Raid and Deet and DDT, and asked to sign a waiver. Until you have seen a herd of wild, sex- crazed, hungry Manitoba mosquitoes, you haven't lived.
We camped in Uncle Bob's driveway, by the river, across from a wetland, after a thunderstorm. That was our first mistake. The second one was coming out of the house. The kiss of death was making a run for the camper. By the time the two of us and the arthritic dog were inside, so were about 11 zillion mosquitoes. We spent the night swatting and squashing. By morning it looked like a Stephen King scenario - corspes, blood spatter, murderous suspects.
To be honest, there were probably more mosquitoes outside than in (I would have disputed that around 3am). The screen on the skylight above our bed was dark with insects, and the noise was like a weed eater reving above us. I tried ear plugs, covers over the head, pillow on top. No one slept much. Now we have Deet, Raid, and Duct Tape. We're prepared!
Just like when you have children, no one tells you how awful it can really be some days. I think when people from Vancouver cross the border into Manitoba there should be a diversion, like at a weigh scale, where we are all armed with Raid and Deet and DDT, and asked to sign a waiver. Until you have seen a herd of wild, sex- crazed, hungry Manitoba mosquitoes, you haven't lived.
We camped in Uncle Bob's driveway, by the river, across from a wetland, after a thunderstorm. That was our first mistake. The second one was coming out of the house. The kiss of death was making a run for the camper. By the time the two of us and the arthritic dog were inside, so were about 11 zillion mosquitoes. We spent the night swatting and squashing. By morning it looked like a Stephen King scenario - corspes, blood spatter, murderous suspects.
To be honest, there were probably more mosquitoes outside than in (I would have disputed that around 3am). The screen on the skylight above our bed was dark with insects, and the noise was like a weed eater reving above us. I tried ear plugs, covers over the head, pillow on top. No one slept much. Now we have Deet, Raid, and Duct Tape. We're prepared!
Monday, 4 July 2011
July 4
Happy Independence Day to all. Although it is rather spoiled by the residue of a wonderful hot Canadian long summer weekend. Why don't they have it in February?
Well we had a good Canada Day, as I hope all of you did. Our canoe lifter was fixed, very efficiently, in the parking lot of the Marriott Hotel in Edmonton. (Long story - but canoe lifter builder from Surrey BC was coming to Edmonton for a wedding by serendipity.) We took off by 10am and spent a lovely day seeing the best of summer prairie towns and weather and Canadian flag fervour.
Lloydminster, which confusingly sits right on the Alberta - Sask. border, was holding a big party - cake, flags, ancient farm equipment races, buggy rides, perogies, and lemondade. Great place to stop for lunch, if only we could say what time it really was.
We drove til we were tired, found ourselves in Foam Lake Saskatchewan (with only one time zone), and the prettiest little campsite. Behind the tourist office, across the driving range (campers have right of way says the sign), and down by the river. Wow!
Saturday we beetled on again in order to make it to Pine Falls Manitoba, for a party at one of my cousin's cottage. Well worth the drive, as we arrived in time to swim, barbeque, feast, sing, dance, and watch fireworks by the campfire. A truly Canadian summer weekend! Jane, Bill et al have an idyllic cabin and a wonderful family. We are so lucky to have some time to share it with them.
Photos later, as we want to see Uncle Bob and Auntie Ev before we go. Armed with Deet, Raid, and other toxic chemicals, we intend to do some hiking today. More on mosquitoes later - 'Are They Pets?'
Well we had a good Canada Day, as I hope all of you did. Our canoe lifter was fixed, very efficiently, in the parking lot of the Marriott Hotel in Edmonton. (Long story - but canoe lifter builder from Surrey BC was coming to Edmonton for a wedding by serendipity.) We took off by 10am and spent a lovely day seeing the best of summer prairie towns and weather and Canadian flag fervour.
Lloydminster, which confusingly sits right on the Alberta - Sask. border, was holding a big party - cake, flags, ancient farm equipment races, buggy rides, perogies, and lemondade. Great place to stop for lunch, if only we could say what time it really was.
We drove til we were tired, found ourselves in Foam Lake Saskatchewan (with only one time zone), and the prettiest little campsite. Behind the tourist office, across the driving range (campers have right of way says the sign), and down by the river. Wow!
Saturday we beetled on again in order to make it to Pine Falls Manitoba, for a party at one of my cousin's cottage. Well worth the drive, as we arrived in time to swim, barbeque, feast, sing, dance, and watch fireworks by the campfire. A truly Canadian summer weekend! Jane, Bill et al have an idyllic cabin and a wonderful family. We are so lucky to have some time to share it with them.
Photos later, as we want to see Uncle Bob and Auntie Ev before we go. Armed with Deet, Raid, and other toxic chemicals, we intend to do some hiking today. More on mosquitoes later - 'Are They Pets?'
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