Aug 27

Cape Spear at last!  Today we reached the easternmost point of North America, so from this point on technically we’ll be on our way home.  We’ve travelled 10,650km in 66 days – a somewhat daunting voyage- and yet we don’t feel ready to turn around.  Despite the occasional day of rain (torrential on 2 memorable occasions), plenty of bugs, and the usual ups and downs of domestic life (salsa overturned in fridge, burned dinner, sand in the bed) we’re happy and cozy in the camper.  In fact it will be hard to go back to having a house and all the responsibility that entails.  Here the weekly cleaning takes 5 minutes, there is only 1 sink, we shop daily, and we drop off our laundry when we need to.  No chores!

 We’ve had 2 nights in motels – when it was 37C in southern Ontario.  One oil change, and another booked for this week.  Two haircuts, both surprisingly pleasing!   We’ve lost our clothesline (left in a campsite), a bike lock (not locked on, obviously), the dog leash (found the next day on the trail), and two leveling blocks (found in the next door campsite – bad taste!)  Three breakages – the canoe lifter which we gave up on in Ontario after yet another crash, the thermostat which we have gerryrigged, and the battery operated whizzerizer  for making lattes (a more heart wrenching loss).

 We’ve had our first car accident, in St John’s.  My fault entirely for not remembering the camper is more 3 dimensional than most cars.  While standing on the sidewalk, directing Norbert to back into a parking spot, I grew frustrated with his hesitancy.  I waved him back aggressively, sure he was missing the steel post by 6 inches.  He was, but not the sign affixed to the top of it, which took off a light on the back of the camper, with a great wrenching sound and shattering of glass.  Oooops. 

All in all a most exceptional trip so far.  We are prepared for both the good and the bad, and with constant vigilance are hoping to avoid self induced disaster.  Haven't driven off with the dog still tied to the bumper, haven't got back from a walk to find the rain pouring in, yet.  We’re looking forward to lots more adventure too.  Although, Hurricane Irene is all the talk today here, after much of the New York coast has been evacuated.  That would be way too much adventure for me!  Will keep you posted!

Aug 19

I'm sitting watching the sun set off the coast of Fogo Island, while the local boys play a lazy ball game in the park next door.  The sun warms the limestone ridges of Brimstone Head, the saltbox houses down the lane glow rosily, and the warm aromas of Norbert's fish pasta waft past me.  Tough life this.

Today I was thinking about what makes this tiny outpost still home, still Canada. The things that unite us.  The flag - beautiful, beloved, brilliant.  Loonies, toonies, pennies.  Tim Hortons, Canadian Tire, Bank of Montreal.  Boreal forest, ocean shoreline, salmon.  Stanfields, Keens, Lulu Lemon.  Somehow, despite the different communities, the local dialects, the varied vegetation, it's all still home.  It's comfortable, welcoming, charming and ours.  We have a lot to be proud of and a lot to be grateful for.

Newfoundland is a paradox.  We are regaled with tales and songs by local writers, but there's nary a menu or sign without misspellings.  Local seafood abounds but only fish and chips appears in every village.  There are half a million Newfoundlanders but they live along 5,000 km of shoreline.  Every little hamlet is lovely, lonely, and full of art, music and life.  Why do we continue to live in cities?

The wine is chilled, the pasta is calling.  My only duty done, I will take up my glass and watch the rest of the ball game before darkness falls.  Sweet dreams to all.

 

Aug 14

We're back in Gros Morne National Park, after what seems like a long adventure in the arctic.  Northwestern Newfoundland was cold and blustery, and the hardships of the Norse adventurers could easily be imagined.  Over 1000 years ago they sailed 50 ft boats from Iceland and Greenland, searching for wood, ivory, walrus hide, sealskins, and fish, landing, and settling briefly on the Rock. 

L'anse aux Meadows was everything I'd hoped for - cold, green, magical.  We went to a Saga Telling in the evening in the recreated sod house, held by fire light, and heard a magnificent Viking tell the stories that have been passed down for the ages.  'The ravens shall feast from their bones....'  amongst other vivid and ghastly images!  Those Vikings!

From there we took a ferry across the Strait of Belle Isle to Labrador - had to show Buddy his homeland!  Bleak.  Sandy.  Cold.  Windy.  I felt like I'd been dropped in Ellesmere Island - house perched on rock, by the shore, no vegetation, only wind.  And blackflies. 

Did I mention the blackflies?  I'm averaging 2 bites/ day.  Norbert has had only one, ever.  Not fair. Especially as they cause a great gouge, torrential bleeding, interminable itching, and massive swelling.  My eye was swollen shut for 2 days after Labrador.  Some days I appreciate the benefits of Vancouver more than others. 

So, back in welcoming Newfoundland, to eat more lobster, cod, and beer, and to hike.  Today we topped the Lookout Trail - 350 m. and worth every step.  Tomorrow, weather permitting, we'll try a 15 km trail along the coast.  Wonderful park, thanks to the Parks Canada, who have also provided all the fabulous interpretive centres in L'anse aux Meadows, Port au Choix, Red Bay, etc, etc.  Pay your taxes!

Aug 9

Ice, as far as the eye can see!  The first glimpse of shimmering blue icebergs is so stunning it defies description.  Like enormous silvery alien spacecraft they float in a surreal landscape above the dark sea, unmoving, austere, eerily silent.  Closer, waves wash over hollows, spilling in frothing cascades over the glistening ice.  One, adrift like a giant half submerged aircraft carrier foundered mysteriously in the middle of the sea.  One, a graceful silken silvery vase, perfectly upright.  One like the Sidney Opera House, and one a massive conch shell.  Stunning in their beauty and their size.

We have arrived in the northernmost tip of Newfoundland as the massive Petermann Ice Island passes just offshore.  Spawned a year ago from a glacier in the north of Greenland it is moving south in the Labrador current 24 km per day.  Initially 250 sq. km., it is now a mere 45 sq. km., and 11 km long, lying just along the NE shore, off St Anthony.  (http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/NaturalHazards/view.php?id=51615 )

So big it generates its own weather, it is also creating a wonderful display of fragments of ice along the coast, unheard of at this time of year.  Some harbours have been blocked off by bigger pieces for days at a time, and others are filled with floating and foundering blocks of varying sizes.  Seen from shore, the ice island fills the horizon, lit by a band of light breaking through the clouds above it.  From the sea, it appears as an unbroken line of icy cliffs, spackled with toppled mountain tops, rift valleys and brilliant lines of clear icy blue. 

We've feasted our eyes on this amazing spectacle.  We took a boat trip out amongst the ice, gathered bergie bits along the shore, and hiked the cliffs to view the vista.  Our gin and tonic was spicy with the effervescent bubbles of 10,000 year old air erupting from icebergs in our glasses!  (There is a local company cashing in on the bounty with sales of iceberg water, and others with iceberg beer and vodka!  The cod may be gone from Newfoundland, but climate change has not defeated these hardy souls!)

Today we move ahead in glacial time to the recent past, only 1000 years ago, and visit L'anse aux Meadows, the Norse settlement on the Strait of Belle Isle at the tip of Newfoundland.  More on Vikings tomorrow!   Cheers!

Aug 5

I'm sitting in the most beautiful campsite in the world, looking over the ocean towards Labrador, watching the sunset.  I have a beer in my hand, 2 lobsters on the table cooling, and computer connnected to wifi.  Who could ask for more?  We can't leave this lovely spot in Gros Morne Park - too much hiking to do, a great fish store down the road, nice neighbours to meet by the campfire as the sun sets.  How will we see the rest of Newfoundland?  Today N did the arduous 15 km Gros Morne mountain hike, and I took a boat ride to see the geology and scenery of the coastline.  Wed. we hiked to a fabulous waterfall, and saw 2 moose, at last!   It would take a month to hike all the trails, and sample all the local fish and beer. 

We want to continue up the Northern Penninsula to L'anse aux meadows, but we know it will be cooler and foggier, and couldn't be so lovely.  Tomorrow we may pry ourselves off this cliff to drive another 400 km north to see.  For history buffs, the east coast has the west coast beat by a few centuries.  John Cabot arrived on these shores in 1497.  Samuel de Champlain expored and exploited through the 1700's.  And of course, the Vikings came to fish and tell tall tales 1000 years ago.  There are first nation's grave sites and archeological remains dating back to the Cape Dorset people 4000 years ago.  We walked with the Park Naturalist along the shale and limestone shoreline that dates back 450 million years, and in the background are the ridges and rocks of the Long Range mountains, the northern end of the Appalachian chain, which are the oldest rocks on earth - 1.2 billion years old. 

Also in Gros Morne is one of the few sites on earth where the iron rich rocks of the earth's mantle is exposed above the surrounding crust, in the Tablelands plateau.  On the way back through the park we'll take a guided walk there.  We have a date to meet some friends here in 2 weeks and join them for a writers' festival, so we'll have more time to explore. 

Meanwhile off to the north, and Labrador too.  Icebergs are on the agenda, whales, and more lobster!

August 1

Newfoundland at last!  We crossed the Gulf of St. Lawrence, into New Brunswick, then sped across Nova Scotia, (regretably, but we'll be back), and took the ferry to Port aux Basques yesterday.  Now we have a month to spend here, and already it seems too short.  Every vista is beautiful, every road compelling, every hamlet idyllic.  How do you just visit a place so perfect?

Nova Scotia was picture perfect too, and the lobster was sensational!  Yes, back to the gastronomic cruise itinerary.  It's entirely variable though - the Sobey's store is filled with junk food, processed chickens, white bread and dead produce.  But they do have a beer and wine section!  The farmers' markets are few and far between, but the local berries are plump and delicious.  The bakeries are plentiful, and often delectible, but occasionally unimaginably dull.  Today we've found lattes (rare in Tim Horton land) and homemade soup, plus Wifi and a view!  Fish markets are mostly derelict all across the Maritimes - what does that say about our natural resources?????  BUT, MacDonalds has a Mclobster sandwich!  And of course, Sydney Mines has the Lik-a-Chick!  Who could ask for more?  (For those who doubt, N has a photo of the famous sign to prove it!)

The other oddity we noticed as soon as we hit the Nova Scotia was the lawns.  That's LAWNS, big time.  Tiny house, 5 acres of manicured grass.  The most fastidious have perfect laid out cross hatching mower marks too.  Where the national sport in Ontario is snowmobiling, in Quebec ATVing, in NS it's ride-on mowing.  In Baddeck we counted 20 in one block!  Perhaps they have races to????  What have we been missing?

So, after seeing the country's tallest lighthouse and the world's biggest lobster, we're off to see the best island of all.  (Apologies to SS, Galiano, Gambier......) Waiting for our laundry to finish, then we're off to climb an ancient volcanic cone with a view to Labrador.  It's a strange and wonderful country.